Know Your Diamond – Cut

Out of hundreds of recognised gemstones 
in the world today, only the diamond is worthy for an engagement ring, the enduring symbol of love and commitment. A diamond is brilliant, returning more white light to the eye. It disperses fire and scintillates with reflected and refracted light. A diamond is rare and it endures, being the hardest natural substance on earth and the purest of all gemstones.

“ When buying a diamond, it helps to know about the 4C’s:
Colour, Clarity, Cut, and Carat. ”


Like harnessing a force of nature, the cut, or “make” of a diamond is what reveals its inherent beauty. It refers to the facet proportions on the surface of a diamond. More than any other factor, the precise positioning of these facets determines the beauty of the stone.

  • Cut is not the shape of a diamond but the arrangement of a diamond’s facets
  • Most diamonds are cut with 57 or
 58 facets, depending on the absence or presence of a culet, to maximise light return – a good cut has more scintillation, more sparkle
  • A well-cut diamond always looks brilliant no matter what setting it’s in

There is a defined relationship between the table, the crown, the pavilion and the girdle. The facets on the crown (top) function as windows, collecting light into the heart of the stone. The facets on the pavilion (bottom) mirror the light back and forth in a frenzy until it bursts out through the crown in a fiery blaze.

A word to the wise

An uninformed buyer can be easily deceived by an unscrupulous diamond cutter.
Here are some tricks routinely found in
the marketplace that we in K. M. Oli Mohammed do not practice:

Carat weight – because it is always a factor
in pricing, some diamond cutters create an excessively thick girdle to increase carat weight and price.

Fool the eye – a diamond can be fashioned
to create the illusion of a larger stone. However such stones exhibit diminished light behaviour.

Fisheye – when a diamond is cut with a shallow pavilion and large table size, it produces a dull stone. It also creates an ugly “fisheye” effect when viewed through the crown.

Nailhead – when the pavilion of a diamond is too deep, a darkening “nailhead” effect appears in the middle of the stone.

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